Our final month in NZ involved spending time with family, selling our vanship, and doing some “life admin”. Nevertheless we still had some time for a few excursions in a borrowed car, before travelling to Auckland for a flight to return us to Europe.
Coordinates
Service and sacrifice.
🤔 Curiosity
Anzac Day is a national holiday on April 25. It’s the 0.5 of only 3.5 days per year upon which most NZ shops shut their doors. Formally marked since 1920, the date corresponds to the start of military action by Australia and New Zealand Army Corps (ANZAC) troops at Gallipoli in 1915. Originally about “the part taken by New Zealand troops in World War I, and in memory of those who gave their lives for the Empire” it presently commemorates all those who died in or returned from humanity’s endless wars. We watched the customary dawn service, live streamed from Wellington and attended as per tradition by NZ, Australian and Turkish dignitaries. The service is followed by a less formal parade, led by veterans, later in the day. Anzac Day is associated with the phrase “Lest we forget” (from Kipling’s 1897 poem Recessional); paper poppies to remember those in unmarked graves (from McCrae’s 1915 poem In Flanders Fields); and a dry oat-based “Anzac” biscuit that likely never saw action on the Front.
Northland
The sandspit/ dunes opposite Mangawhai Heads are a wildlife reserve, seen here from the Goldschmidt Track (first photo). Mangawhai Cliffs Walkway begins by heading north about 1km along Mangawhai Heads Beach (second photo); it then gains the cliffs for coastal views (third photo). Mid to low tide permits returning via the beach, passing early Miocene dacite lava columns (final photo).
The short Huitau Pā Walkway links a rocky inlet locally known as “The Gap”, notorious for dangerous waves in a sea swell—fishermen have died here (first photo), to Taiharuru | McGregors Bay. The pā site is on a small headland (second photo); only a defensive ditch remains. Scenic “Frogtown Beach” is reached via Pataua South’s Mahanga Road (third photo). Pataua Pā on the adjacent Te Whangai Head has rāhui tapu status, so can’t be explored (final photo).
Another short low tide walk, this time from Ngunguru River estuary (first photo) around the rocky/ sandy shore opposing the sandspit (second photo), to a lookout on the small headland at the western end of Whangaumu Bay. From this there’s a view upriver (third photo) and over Whangaumu’s golden sand beach (final photo).
Mt Manaia at 420m, on the Whangārei Heads, is seen here from Mt Aubrey (first photo). The 20 million year-old volcanic remains of lava plugs have eroded into towering columns. Alternatively, this one at summit is a Northland iwi ancestor (second photo); the other columns are said to be his wife and children. Summit views include southeast towards Bream Head with the Hen and Chicken Islands beyond (third photo) and northwest into Parua Bay, with Motukiore Island sitting between Manganese and Reserve Points (final photo). It was 4.3km/ 1.5h return via a well-formed track.
Mt Aubrey at 216m, seen from Mt Manaia; Marsden Point’s former oil refinery and working cargo port are across the Whangārei Harbour entrance, with the settlements of Ruakāka on the left and One Tree Point on the right (first photo). From Beach Road the Reotahi Walkway passes freezing works ruins that face the defunct refinery (second photo), before reaching Little Munro Bay (third photo). Mt Aubrey Walkway climbs steeply then follows ridge line (final photo) to a lookout, before descending to Reotahi Road. The loop walk is 4.3km and took 1.5h.
Waipū Coastal Walkway from the beach at Waipū Cove to Langs Beach is one of our favourite short walks. Archetypal Northland coastal scenery (first photo) is mixed with distinctive “pancake rocks” (remaining photos). This crystalline limestone formed 35–24 million years ago under pressure beneath a shallow sea; layers developed via geological processes (stylobedding and grain boundary diffusion). Subsequent weathering has formed blocks and pillars that sit “uncomformably” atop rocks 120 million years older still.
Continuing on the walkway, there’s access to a rocky beach at “Cox’s Cove”, where pōhutukawa trees offer shade (first photo). From the optional exit at Waterman Drive the track is less formed, requiring some agility to climb over the boulders—and under fallen trees (second photo). “Ding Bay” has apparently dinged many a surfboard (third photo). Depending on tide, exit here to Cove Road or continue rock-hopping along the foreshore to reach the gorgeous Langs Beach (final photo).
Auckland
Kawau Island is seen from the South Coast Track in Auckland’s Tāwharanui Regional Park (first photo). There’s a view to Little Barrier Island from Takatu (or Tokatū) Point (second photo). Sandy beaches on the north side of Tāwharanui Peninsula fronting Omaha Bay are seen from the North Coast Track (third photo). At the peninsula’s base is the village of Matakana, known for its farmer’s market, boutique shops and sculpted public toilets (final photo).
We spent a couple of days in Auckland’s CBD en route to the airport, concluding our 18-month NZ road trip. A selection of old boats were moored outside the NZ Maritime Museum (first photo). The Wētā Cave at SkyCity offers guided tours and movie merchandise (second photo). Auckland Art Gallery has something of interest for most tastes (third photo). We finished with stroll into the suburb of Ponsonby, a premium residential neighbourhood with upmarket shopping and dining (final photo).
Signing off
So ends our last dispatch from the Antipodes. We had an amazing, interesting, foody, fascinating, intense, beautiful, challenging, physical, mental, picture-postcard, stormy, pie-rich, photogenic, privileged, nature-filled, fungilicious, grateful, unbelievable, sometimes unwashed, stargazing, wondrous wandering time. What comes next? Well, Europe awaits—but we need to get settled in first. We therefore make no promises about regularity of further content. Feel free to stay signed up for whatever the future brings, or drift away. As for NZ, we gave it a good go, but we didn’t get everywhere. That means there are still places left for us to explore next time.
Ka kite anō au i a koutou | See you again, New Zealand!
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